WHO ARE WE?
Here is our personal blog of our time in Oaxaca. We created this Oaxaca With Children blog as a supplement for anyone interested in having a similar experience. We have filled it with the links we used to navigate the city, understand the surrounding area, reserve our apartment, and sign up for classes. Everything in ORANGE is linked to more information. *We rented our house in San Diego for the month of July to help pay for the trip.
WHY OAXACA CITY FOR KIDS?
- Urban experience with a lot of wonderful culture.
- High altitude means temperate summer climate (not too hot!)
- Very tolerant and open culture with a rich history.
- A 2000 year-old pyramid city 15 minutes out of town!
- Inexpensive workshops for children of all ages at all museums and libraries (many free).
- Dozens of well-subsidized museums.
- Friendly and safe.
- Relatively inexpensive to fly from Tijuana ($300 per ticket), compared to say, Peru.
- Ruins of pyramids in all the surrounding towns and giant cathedrals.
- Fun food (empanadas, tlayudas, tamales), tropical fruits, and CHOCOLATE (mole and hot)
- Spanish- speaking, of course (for Spanish immersion students!)
- Great history lesson for kids: Zapotec--Aztec--Spanish--Independence (on the right is a Spanish cathedral built over a Zapotec temple)
- Exposure and appreciation for diverse lifestyles and an also an appreciation of one's own culture.
WHEN TO GO AND FOR HOW LONG
Since discovering the courses at the Casa de la Cultura (four images below), this blog site assumes that your children would want to enroll in the classes, thereby structuring your visit here. The other children in the courses are mostly local Oaxacan and this is a great way to meet friends and have an authentic immersion experience. Our children are currently enrolled in four classes (an hour every morning for pottery, every afternoon on alternating days 4-6pm in painting, dance, or chess). This leaves the middle of the day to explore more of Oaxaca. We'd recommend fewer classes if this is your first time, so that you can have more freedom to take entire days, venturing beyond the city (the catalog for the July-Aug. season comes out on the website below June 15th. ). Of course, if you are not interested in the courses, there are enough workshops and activities to interest you in this town for three full months (or more). This is why we had to come back again.
Our first summer here was spent exploring all the villages spoking out from Oaxaca, a week-long class at the public library (9-12 daily), as well as museums, theater and music performances, and of course, the Guelaguetza dances (see below.) We only discovered the classes at the Casa de la Cultura half way through our visit. Since the classes run for 7 weeks, it hardly seemed worth it for just two (and most had filled up.). When we returned this summer, the priority was immersion with the children of Oaxaca in classes and mini-trips between morning and afternoon classes.
In this blog we have attempted to facilitate the process for those of you who can get away for at least an entire month (apartment rates and classes start the first of the month), The summer classes at the Casa de la Cultura (above and right) run from July 5- Aug. 18th and are VERY worth it. If by chance you can get away for this amount of time, it would be ideal for the children to complete their courses. Both times we have come down, it was for the month of July. Registration for the courses online is not recommended, since they are not equipped to accept money this way, and can therefor not guarantee placement in the courses. Arriving a week before the start of classes is essential to register. Make sure to download the catalog at the above site before you come, select your course numbers, and bring copies of your passport and children's birth certificates (Mexicana Airlines and Air Mexico both require the birth certificates anyhow now to verify that the children you are bringing are really yours!) The offices are located upstairs. Prepare yourself for a taste of the bureaucratic red tape that permeates Mexico. You will likely have to go through several officials to sign up, give documents, and pay. 
The other fun part of being there for the last two weeks of July is the regional dance performances, called the Guelaguetza Festival. Groups from all over the region come to the city to perform in both the official festival and that of the "pueblos". We went on the opening day (free) up in the stadium and to similar performances throughout the city at various plazas. The costumes are vibrantly colorful and the music plays everywhere.
WHERE WE STAY
Villa Maria is in a bustling neighborhood, off the main touristed part of the city. Here is their web site. Although there are tourists from Mexico who stay here, most are international. There are many other less expensive alternatives that are more authentic, but Villa Maria is convenient, simply because they are equipped to reserve online and accept down payment (100) through Western Union. We paid $650 for a completely furnished two-bedroom apartment. It is cleaned, towels and sheets changed once a week. High speed web access is an extra $20 and a TV (5 channels but fun if you want to practice some Spanish) is $30.
*About TV: our kids get an hour of morning cartoons in the morning and some at night, while we are here. Since we don't have it at home, they get a fair share here. Trying to follow along with a telenovela is another fun challenge (but be ready with the remote for sexy scenes, if watching with kids). The news is usually pretty easy to understand (unless it is coming from Spain, which we have a harder time with.)
*About TV: our kids get an hour of morning cartoons in the morning and some at night, while we are here. Since we don't have it at home, they get a fair share here. Trying to follow along with a telenovela is another fun challenge (but be ready with the remote for sexy scenes, if watching with kids). The news is usually pretty easy to understand (unless it is coming from Spain, which we have a harder time with.)
THE CITY OF OAXACA
The museums are relatively cheap (or free). These are two of our favorites: the stamp museum (surprisingly interesting and includes the collection of Freida Khalo letters!) and the textile museum. Both offer various workshops for children (some are a week long.) Here is a list of many of the museums in the city. All of them are within easy walking distance from Villa Maria apartments.
This link describes all the markets in the city and the surrounding villages (and pretty much everything else!). Every village has it's own specialty crafts and it's own market day. So plan your outings around the market days.
The largest market you will ever have experienced is the Abastos Market (almost every bus you climb onto in Oaxaca ends up there because it is next to the bus station). Absolutely everything is sold there (vegetables, craft wares, chile peppers, livestock, sweet treats, cooked food, spiced crickets="chapulines", entire slabs of beef hanging on hooks, puppies, delicious prepared food and pastries, embroidered clothes, toys... ?! everything). It is a cornucopia for all of the senses (especially sound and smell). This video link (not ours but it's a good tour) takes you through some of it. It is a giant maze of a place and expect to get lost. If you do, relax, find a soda or snack vendor and be friendly with them. Practice your Spanish and ask for the direction of the "estacion de autobus". From there, you can catch a bus where the station road meets the periferico labled "Arteaga" (if staying at Villa Maria). This is by far my favorite place to shop for ANYTHING.
Getting lost is how you will orient yourself. Relish it and know that if worst comes to worst, you can always ask for a taxi and get home fast for about $2.
The largest market you will ever have experienced is the Abastos Market (almost every bus you climb onto in Oaxaca ends up there because it is next to the bus station). Absolutely everything is sold there (vegetables, craft wares, chile peppers, livestock, sweet treats, cooked food, spiced crickets="chapulines", entire slabs of beef hanging on hooks, puppies, delicious prepared food and pastries, embroidered clothes, toys... ?! everything). It is a cornucopia for all of the senses (especially sound and smell). This video link (not ours but it's a good tour) takes you through some of it. It is a giant maze of a place and expect to get lost. If you do, relax, find a soda or snack vendor and be friendly with them. Practice your Spanish and ask for the direction of the "estacion de autobus". From there, you can catch a bus where the station road meets the periferico labled "Arteaga" (if staying at Villa Maria). This is by far my favorite place to shop for ANYTHING.
Getting lost is how you will orient yourself. Relish it and know that if worst comes to worst, you can always ask for a taxi and get home fast for about $2.
More info on Oaxaca city:
Oaxaca Wiki oaxaca.wikispaces.com
Virtual Tourist on Oaxaca www.virtualtourist.com—
50+ Things to do in Oaxaca www.planeta.com—recommendoax.
www.mexconnect.com—
LIVING IN OAXACA
You must be willing to do everything in Spanish and be very flexible. Oaxacenos are very appreciative of all attempts and will help you a lot. If you really want to improve your Spanish, we recommend keeping a small pocket notebook to write down all new terms as they come up. This site is geared towards the children who speak Spanish and it is a great learning and confidence building experience for them to play the lead role in all transactions, from asking directions, purchases, or questions. Although our own Spanish is "acceptable", we rely heavily on the children and will play up our role as the non-Spanish speaker, only to encourage them. Their confidence will soar here- people are enamored when any American children speak Spanish. Our kids follow the pattern of greeting all vendors and using the formal Usted in asking for prices or whatever the questions may be.
Expect many vendors to be surprised at the Spanish and call them "gueros". This kind of drives my kids nuts and is mildly offensive; it's translation is more-or less "white boy" (the blonder you are, the more it is used) It is pretty hard to blend in if you are not hispanic, no matter how hard you may try.
Expect many vendors to be surprised at the Spanish and call them "gueros". This kind of drives my kids nuts and is mildly offensive; it's translation is more-or less "white boy" (the blonder you are, the more it is used) It is pretty hard to blend in if you are not hispanic, no matter how hard you may try.
Around the city of Oaxaca, there is a great disparity of income (throughout Mex. for that matter). There is a growing middle class but a large majority of the people are quite poor. There is some resentment among the rural population of the wealthy control of the government (and corruption therein). The teacher union (APPO) in Oaxaca is very active and often have demonstrations around the time of the Guelaguetza festival. Although there has been violence in the past (police crackdown and killed a teacher), these are generally peaceful and vibrant parades. Having said this, it is VERY safe to be here as a tourist. They are appreciative of cultural sensitivity and attempts to use their language, and they completely understand the importance of your contribution to their economy.
Most of the statistics quoted by US news revolves around the drug trade and is very localized around border towns. This is a great article that will put some perspective on the "violence" of Mexico that we hear about back home.
As you would traveling anywhere with your children, make sure your children memorize your address in the first couple days, in case they get lost. Ours carry a little over-the-shoulder pouch for pocket change that we purchased in the zocalo for $1 (from a one-legged man with crutches named Godofredo- look for him! If you want one, he's there daily.) I mention this only because it is a safe and light way from them to also carry a piece of paper with the address and phone number of the hotel. Although I think about this happening every now and then, I do not worry about it, trusting the good Oaxacenos to get my child back to me (assuming they know this info, of course).
Most of the statistics quoted by US news revolves around the drug trade and is very localized around border towns. This is a great article that will put some perspective on the "violence" of Mexico that we hear about back home.
As you would traveling anywhere with your children, make sure your children memorize your address in the first couple days, in case they get lost. Ours carry a little over-the-shoulder pouch for pocket change that we purchased in the zocalo for $1 (from a one-legged man with crutches named Godofredo- look for him! If you want one, he's there daily.) I mention this only because it is a safe and light way from them to also carry a piece of paper with the address and phone number of the hotel. Although I think about this happening every now and then, I do not worry about it, trusting the good Oaxacenos to get my child back to me (assuming they know this info, of course).
PRICES
In contrast to border towns, you will not really need to worry about bargaining here. We have found the prices quoted to be immediately applicable to both local and tourist. Likewise, most products are all valued pretty equally (bowl of soup (below) in the market is usually 35 pesos, taxis are 40 pesos, ear of corn and most snacks= 10 pesos). You needn't feel you are being ripped off. In fact, we have found that when we accidentally overpay, vendors are quick to give it back and tell you that you paid too much. The cost of living is not as cheap as you may expect (the main lunch "comida corrida" (rice, mole, chicken plate with tortillas) costs about $4-5. There are several giant markets (selling EVERYTHING), little grocery stores and one giant Walmart-type store all within blocks of Villa Maria. Bring a couple light-weight large canvas bags for your back pack. I usually come home with a bag full of fresh rolls, veggies, and fruit daily, as I do various errands.
TRANSPORTATION
When in doubt about anything, do not hesitate to ask drivers of the buses and any local shop keepers (better yet, have your kids do it). It is the best way to work on the Spanish and learn your way around. We meet the friendliest people this way because we find we go back to the same people for help (our grocer on the corner).
LAUNDRY
Unless you want to pay a lot for a laundry service (small vendors throughout town- no laundry mats here), buy a large bar of laundry soap at any little corner grocer and do your own daily (otherwise it can be daunting.) Most little monthly apartments have an outdoor sink with a wash board. For this reason, bring light-weight clothing that will dry fast (nylon vs. cotton, for example). Since this is relatively easy to do, you won't need to pack more than 4 days of clothes. One rain-proof, light jacket would double as a cooler-weather garment and raincoat.
WHAT TO PACK
As little as possible with an extra, large duffel bag rolled up inside one of your suitcases. Make sure you will be able to carry it on your return and that you don't violate the one passenger/one check-on (max 50 lbs Mexicana Airlines). With two children, we only pack three check-ons (one with rollers that the kids pull), and the extra will fulfill the fourth on the way home.
I will mention some of the items you may purchase, simply so that you know what you will want to make room for! Larger items that you may want to buy will include: textiles, embroidered blouses, shirts (left) and dresses, hammocks (at Abastos market-see below $25), dragon Alebrijes (below: lightweight but need to be wrapped carefully- consider bringing bubble wrap!), leather goods (bags, sandals).
One pair of shorts ea. for kids (except for adults, unless you want to play the obvious tourist- Mexicans generally don't wear them)
TRAVEL MEDS
guitar? (didn’t do this since we wanted to
TRANSPORTATION
OUT TO THE VILLAGES
The key bus stop for most trips out of town, is along the main highway, called the "periferico" (under the pedestrian bridge, along the massive Abastos market). From Arteaga (turns into Mina St.), you can flag down any bus and ask if they go to the "periferico". Most do. From there, go to the south side of the periferico and ask the bus drivers for the town you are wanting to go to. It sounds complicated, but if you are patient, you'll get on the right one eventually. There are exceptions to this, but the main bus station is located right in this area (ask for the "estacion de bus" at this spot) and they will point you in the right direction. Taxis are also very cheap. We have avoided them, simply because we're a little paranoid about the whole seat belt thing (most don't have them and they go a lot faster than the slow buses).
IN TOWN
We use the bus to go to the Abastos market and to the bus stop mentioned above for venturing out of town. Off of Arteaga street (the bus stops "parada del autobus" are about every other block and are marked), these buses come very frequently (less than 5-min. wait any time of day). Check the labels on the front of the buses for (Central or Abastos). Always check with the bus driver before getting on. All bus rides throughout the city cost 40 cents (4.5 pesos). A fun way to orient yourself to the city is to just hop on any bus and take it full circle (use a good city map to keep track of where you are!) Again taxis are also very cheap and perhaps safer in town than to the villages (mentioned above) only because the traffic and stop lights forces a slower pace than the highways.When in doubt about anything, do not hesitate to ask drivers of the buses and any local shop keepers (better yet, have your kids do it). It is the best way to work on the Spanish and learn your way around. We meet the friendliest people this way because we find we go back to the same people for help (our grocer on the corner).
Unless you want to pay a lot for a laundry service (small vendors throughout town- no laundry mats here), buy a large bar of laundry soap at any little corner grocer and do your own daily (otherwise it can be daunting.) Most little monthly apartments have an outdoor sink with a wash board. For this reason, bring light-weight clothing that will dry fast (nylon vs. cotton, for example). Since this is relatively easy to do, you won't need to pack more than 4 days of clothes. One rain-proof, light jacket would double as a cooler-weather garment and raincoat.
WHAT TO PACK
